Luís Sequeira
Born in Toronto, the son of a Portuguese wedding dress designer, he is today one of the most successful costume designers in the film industry.
A Portuguese descendant making success in Hollywood!
He began his career in the fashion world, but quickly took a different path. Let’s start our conversation by getting to know her journey through the world of fashion a little better.
My mother being a wedding dress designer in Lisbon, fashion was part of my life very early in my life. White she peddled her sewing machine using her trusted (pre-electricity) model, I played with sequins in glass beakers, often mixing them to create colour combos and patterns, which made my mother crazy! I remember making simple clothing for my G.I. Joe ( male doll ) I recall once again making my mother nuts by cutting up a skirt of hers to make a long black cape! It was dramatic in many ways! This was the genesis of my fashion path.
Later I always had an opinion on other clothing my mother made for us including sprotwear and travel outfits ( yes that was a thing back in the day) . This love for fashion fueled my desire to become a fashion designer. Before any formal training, as young people with little money, high fashion was financially unreachable. Without having the fast fashion system of today the only other option was to make ones outfits. This became a angularity for my friends to have cool clothes and go to night clubs. These were always a bit fantastical with a haute couture/ club edge.
Supporting all this I decided to open an atelier and retail shop called ‘ Parallel’, featuring my own designed label ‘Collective’ and showcasing other young Canadian designers. This store is where I met wardrobe buyers and costume designers in film that were impressed by my vigor and my designs. They encouraged me to get into film and TV.
Years later, his passion for drawing merged with his taste for cinema and today he is one of the big names in the universe of costumes. How did you discover this passion for costume design?
As a teen, having always loved cinema – i would play hookie ( skip school) and spend the day at the cinema watching 3-4 films. I never thought I could be part of this industry. This was a dream in the making.
I first started on a Horror TV series as a trainee. The project had various periods with witches, ghouls and dead villains. It was broad based project that tapped into many aspects of costuming .
With a department of only 3 – there were many skills that were taught/learned quickly./ One aspect that i loved was aging of clothing. This was a form of story telling through wear and tear.
My work ethic from my business enabled me to excel and learn at lightning speed. Beyond training on two productions, I had full time employment already lined up. With a few years of working in many of the positions including Assistant designer, set key and textile artist, I gained a position as a costume designer.
The creation of the wardrobe and the universe of the costumes has a laborious method. When does this process begin and how does it unfold?
It all begins with the script or outline. Upon my 1st read, if the story is good – I can start to imagine the characters, the surrounding and the world around them. If it is not, then i makes it very hard to even finish the script.
From there – research becomes the opening avenue that I turn too to start to assemble ideas for the project. This essentially starts with image searching and collecting. Reading related books and articles also play a part in delving into the world the is depicted in the script.
Mood board are then put together for each character and major groups that we will be having. This is the bases of communicating. Imagery both articulated and abstract with colours palettes help communicate both to the director but also to my team.
Despite having to follow some guidelines, a good dose of inspiration is necessary. Where do you find it?
I find inspiration everywhere. In art, photography, fashion, music. Anything that feeds the creative soul is food for my work. In the case of a period project. I delve into the timeline we are creating. I circle before and ahead to understand the momentum of design.
Born in Canada to Portuguese parents, Lusitanian blood runs through his veins. Do your Portuguese roots influence the way you produce your art?
Fond memories of my childhood trips to Portugal helped me to understand the context of history. Visiting my family village helped me understand rural life. I may have become a Portuguese citizen in my 40’s but the lifeline was there from as early as my 1st trip at the age of three which I remember distinctly.
Articles report that he has already used some pieces bought in Portugal in costumes for major international films. And truth?
Yes indeed it is true. I am always on the look out for either specific pieces for my current project or pieces to keep in my collection. Research books and magazines from years ago to wonderful vintage clothing and accessories. As mentioned , I am always looking for inspiration everywhere. Specific costume pieces include exquisite glass buttons , gloves, jewellery and handbags.
In 2018 he was nominated for the Oscar for Best Wardrobe for his work in the film “The Shape of Water”, by Guillermo Del Toro. Four years later, in 2022, he repeated the feat, this time with “Nightmare Alley – Alley of Lost Souls”, by the same Mexican director. How does it feel to be among the best?
I am blessed to have been part of these two wonderful projects. When you work with your director repeatedly, you gain a short hand in communication. You understand the aesthetics and the creativity is much more fluid with less 2nd guessing.
In addition to productions with Del Toro, he also signed, for example, the wardrobe for the films “The Christmas Chronicles”, “It – Chapter 2”, “Monster Problems” and collaborated on the series “Lock & Key”. What is the most challenging project so far?
I think it would be a tie. IT – chapter 2 involved so many multiples of the costumes and stages of distress Beyond the obvious ability to find and/ or make the multiples up to over 50 of an item. Also as s we never shoot in direct continuity, it was a huge logic puzzle to have the stages ready as we shoot.
Do you consider that costumes have the incredible ability to convey information that is often implied, such as the character’s personality or mood?
I find my job is to help each actor feel his part naturally through his in the world we are creating. Unifying and helping to tell the story of movement and stagnation depending on the story is also key. This can be done with colour, texture and/or with a shift in silhouette. All this enables the art of story telling as it relates to the sets, cinematography and ultimately directors vision.
The clothes present in a film are often one of the main aspects responsible for making a production an unforgettable icon. In your career, which costume occupies this position?
In both Shape of Water and Nightmare Alley the costumes and sets were carefully crafted to literally dance with each other. Great attention to both the set colours and set dressing was key to what we did with the costumes. Visually I think its apparent when you watch the movie but never distracting from the drama that unfolds in each of these films.
In which project will we soon have the possibility of finding a costume developed by you?
I finished a wonderful contemporary film for Netflix called ‘A family Affair’ with Nicole Kidman, Zac Efron and Joey King set to release this coming Christmas. I am now just starting the ‘IT’ prequel limited series called ‘Welcome to Derry’ with Director Andy Muscheietti, who I have had the please of working with before.
A message to all artists in the world.
Find your passion, ride the wave of self discovery and development, stay true to your heart, enjoy the journey and know that each day, project is a gift to be cherished.
Luís Sequeira - Descendências Magazine
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